Aug 13
Ennis, MT to Dillon, MT
75 miles
Aug 14
Dillon, MT to Jackson, Mt
51 miles
We’ve run out of superlatives to describe Montana. We both agree that this is the finest state yet in terms of scenery, and we certainly have enjoyed the cycling, despite adverse weather conditions over the past 2 days. The cuisine has also improved significantly since we left the Midwest, and we are now truly enjoying eating the 2,500+ calories that we need to get us through the day. And microbrews for the choosing!
The ride from Ennis to Dillon started out with having to pay back the 1,800 feet that we lost the previous day, plus an extra 200 in interest, in the first 15 miles. Near the crest of the hill we met a young man from Barcelona who had started in Philadelphia on June 1, cycled south to Florida, then west to California, north to Oregon, and now was on his way back to the East Coast! A fun descent brought us into the historic mining towns of Virginia City and Nevada City, perfectly preserved in all their late 1800’s glory. Later in the day we passed by Beaverhead Rock, and important landmark for Lewis and Clark’s trek. Hundreds of snow geese and Sandhill Cranes paddled in the marshes below. Once again, we skated into town just ahead of the afternoon thunderstorm.
The next day, on route from Dillon to Jackson, the scenery was no less stunning coming into the Big Hole Valley, but our luck with outrunning the afternoon storms gave out. Halfway between Badger Pass and Big Hole Pass we met Walter, a retired professor from North Carolina headed east, and took shelter from a passing shower with him in a silo. Here we passed the time trading touring stories and information about the route ahead. Walter was on his third trip cross-country, but vowed that this was his last trip in the US, preferring touring in Europe. Once the shower passed, we each headed our respective directions, though a few miles north we were caught again in another rain shower. With no structure to take shelter under this time, we pulled out the tent rainfly and huddled under it on the side of the road for about 40 minutes. The rain eventually subsided, but the wind kept blowing. The rest of our day was spent riding directly into a fierce headwind that threatened to blow us back to Kansas. It may have been the slowest 15 miles that either of us has ever ridden. All the while, the road ahead was shrouded in dark, ominous clouds and it constantly appeared as if we were headed directly into heavy showers. However, the road kept curving and the showers kept moving, and miraculously, we arrived in Jackson (finally!) without getting rained on again. The Jackson Lodge was our lodging for the night and soaking in its hot springs pool was the perfect fix for our cold, tired bodies. After a relaxing soak, we enjoyed a fine meal and then lively conversation with Vickie, a Ph.D. scientist from Bozeman, Jim, another touring cyclist headed east, and Richard and Katherine, cyclists doing a loop on the Lewis & Clark.
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